Set within the former Supreme Court wing of the National Gallery Singapore, Gilmore & Damian D’Silva is really more a personal homecoming than a new restaurant opening for Chef Damian D’Silva.
One of Singapore’s most respected custodians of heritage cuisine, Chef Damian shares that this space is a full-circle tribute to his grandfather (or “Pop”, as he would call him), Gilmore D’Silva.
“I think what I am today, 95% of it is Grandad’s DNA,” he says.
The choice of location is no coincidence. Gilmore was the first and only custodian of the Supreme Court, safeguarding the building for over two decades, living within its quarters and even cooking for judges on occasion. Today, his grandson returns to the same walls not as caretaker of keys, but as guardian of a culture, preserving Eurasian and Singapore heritage flavours that might otherwise fade into memory.
Built on Heirloom Recipes
The restaurant presents itself as premium casual, but the soul is unmistakably intimate. From the gentlemanly cadence of service to the thoughtful table settings, there is an old-world grace that feels intentional rather than nostalgic. Dishes are designed for sharing, echoing the warmth of Gilmore’s table, where family, friends and guests of all backgrounds gathered over food prepared with patience and pride.
The menu draws heavily from heirloom Eurasian recipes — some over 200 years old — alongside Chinese dishes inspired by Gilmore’s home cooking. Everything is made from scratch, using traditional methods, and it shows in the depth and clarity of flavour across the meal.
Highlights from Gilmore & Damian D’Silva
The Teochew Ngoh Hiang (S$16) is a masterclass in balance and craft. Distinguished by the addition of yam — a Teochew hallmark — the filling combines prawns, crab, minced pork, pork liver, mushrooms and water chestnuts, all gently perfumed with a house-blended five spice. Wrapped in caul fat and fried till crisp, it is rich without being heavy, lifted by a bright chuka chilli that cuts cleanly through the savouriness.
A house speciality, the Nourishing Chicken Soup in Coconut ($28) is my personal favourite. This arrives theatrically steamed within a coconut husk. Free-range chicken is gently cooked with a medley of Chinese herbs, coconut water and Hakka yellow wine, resulting in a broth that is deeply restorative yet remarkably light. Paired with a simple soy-garlic-chilli dipping sauce, it feels like a dish meant for both celebration and care, which is fitting, given its origins as an homage to Chef Chit Pang’s beloved grandmother.
The Ambiler Kachang (S$18), or stir-fried long beans with salted fish, is deceptively simple and quietly addictive. The tang of Indonesian tamarind gives the dish its backbone, while Bombay duck salted fish adds savoury depth. Traditionally made to last days, its acidity whets the appetite beautifully, especially alongside richer mains.
Nearly forgotten but lovingly revived, Cowdang (S$22) features wild-caught Ang Kar prawns stewed gently with coconut milk, ginger flower and green chilli. Rooted in Kristang heritage, the dish is aromatic and comforting, with a restrained richness that allows the sweetness of the prawns to shine.
From Gilmore’s own recipe book comes the Pesce Assa ($26), a Korean seerfish fillet coated in a slow-cooked sambal of 11 ingredients, wrapped in banana leaf and grilled over charcoal. The sambal is layered and smoky rather than fiery, clinging to the firm, oily flesh of the fish. This is a dish that speaks of time, not trend.
The most evocative dish from the menu is the Christmas Debal (S$48). A Kristang curry traditionally made from festive leftovers, it brings together smoked ham, bacon bones, roast pork and chicken in a vinegary, mustard-tinged stew. Served with homemade vegetable achar and sliced baguette, it is robust, unapologetic and steeped in history. This a dish designed to evolve over days, just as stories do.
Dessert stays true to tradition. The Sugee Cake with Chantilly (S$18), made from Gilmore’s heirloom recipe, is rich with butter and almonds, delicately scented with brandy, and best enjoyed with the lightly whipped cream on the side.
Alongside it, a rotating selection of Singapore Heritage Kuehs (6 for $8, 12 for $16) features perennial favourites from kueh salat to sarang semut. These are handmade in-house and offer a gentle, nostalgic close to the meal.
Gilmore & Damian D’Silva is located at 1 St Andrew Road, #01-02/03, National Gallery, Singapore 178957. It is open daily from 11.30am – 3pm for lunch and 6pm – 10pm for dinner. Make your reservation on Tablecheck.
